SAMPLE CHAPTER:
Chapter 3 Ascent: Pages 46 - 51

Climbing is an integral part of backcountry skiing. Instead of dreading the climb, anticipate what you’re going to see once you reach the top! While skiing on the flats is not as exciting as going downhill, skiing the flats can be a pleasant experience if you learn to relax your mind and go with it. If you’re expedition skiing, you’ll need to cover a lot of ground between those downhill sections. Skiing or climbing up the slope you intend to ski down is a good practice, and lets you inspect snow conditions. Climbing in the backcountry is all about technique and equipment. It’s not all muscle!

Why Climbing Skins?
Climbing skins and Nordic wax provide the basic snow locomotive force in skiing: the ability to grip and glide over the snow. Traditionally, wax was used for long-distance ski tours on rolling or low angle terrain. Most skiers now use skins for flat skiing and climbing because for the most part the glide available with wax is negated when you carry a heavy pack or break trail in deep snow. Additionally, compared to skins, wax is impractical due to its lower adhesion qualities on steeper climbs of varying snow conditions. The idea is to save energy. Climbing skins climb snow that wax doesn’t handle well. Skins make steeper climbing faster and safer. Finally, they can be left on for skiing downhill to reduce speed when the skier is fatigued or is carrying a heavy pack.

Climbing Skins
Climbing skins were originally made out of actual seal skin. Strips of seal skin were fastened to the bottom of the skis with adhesive or buckles, enabling the ski to grip snow while allowing for glide (see figure 3.2). Seal skin was used because its fur has a “nap” (that is, the fur is slanted, so these skins allow you to slide skis forward but not backward because the skin bristles up, gripping the snow). Most modern climbing skins are mohair, nylon, or plastic. Nylon skins are preferable because they absorb less water, ice up less, and have better glide than mohair or plastic skins.

Climbing skins use an adhesive that can be reapplied after it has worn off. Older skins had several buckles that allowed snow to accumulate between the skin and ski, causing the ski to come off. On hard-pack or icy traverses, buckles prevented the ski from being edged completely, thus causing slips.

Skin Adhesives
Some adhesives don’t work well at temperatures below 0 degrees Fahrenheit (–18 degrees Celsius) or when the skins get really wet. Ask your ski shop which glue works best. Reapply your adhesive before starting any long ski tour. It is also smart to take along some backups in case your skins just won’t stick, such as violet or silver cross-country wax, duct tape, or an old pair of Nordic-width skins. Always dry your skins with the skins folded base to base, whether they are dried in the hut or outside in the sun. This prevents two problems: glue dehydration and ultra violet breakdown of the glue.

Skin Sizes
There are several brands of climbing skins that come in several different widths, from 50 to 89 mm and beyond for use with wide skis. Some skins must be custom fitted and cut with a razor blade that is provided with the skin. It’s easy to do. If properly measured, the skin will cover almost the entire bottom of the ski, allowing about a half inch on either side of the skin so that complete edging of the ski can occur. Alpine or full-width skins should be used for peak ascents or touring. Half skins or kicker skins should be reserved for long rolling or flat terrain.

Using Skins During Skiing
Skins glide best when they are clean. Any old adhesive stuck to the snow side of the skin can hold snow and ice, diminishing the skin’s effectiveness. Skin waxes or special “anti-glop” sprays help skins to glide more smoothly, especially in wet spring snows. Glue touch-ups may be required if the skins get dirty or wet or are used in very cold conditions. In very cold conditions, keep the skins warm and sticky between runs by putting them inside your jacket. When skiing downhill, place the skins in a waterproof nylon bag larger than the one they came in. This makes the skins easier to access and will keep your clothes drier. Be sure your skins have rubber tail clips and tighteners. These will keep the skins on securely even if the adhesive is not working. If you have new wider skins, be sure that the skin’s tip hardware fits over the tip of your ski. A thumb loop added to the metal tip part makes for easier grasping in cold weather. If your skis are freshly waxed, your skins will still stick if the wax penetrated the base as it should, and there is little residue - which there usually isn’t.

Kicker or Half-Skins
Kicker skins were more popular among Telemark skiers as an option to full width skins (they are mentioned here for thoroughness). They are well adapted for use on low-angle , rolling terrain where steep ascents are not encountered. Kickers or half-skins attach under the middle third of the ski (often called the kicker zone or wax pocket). The middle third of the ski receives most of the skier’s weight, and therefore can deliver the most traction. However, the leading edge of some half-skins often causes much resistance to sliding. Plus, the body weight of the skier is not always in the center of the ski during climbing. As the body weight moves forward and backward, so do the center of gravity and traction – this can often cause slipping on steeper slopes.

Waxless Skis
There is no ski-base system that can really replace skins. The greatest barrier to the waxless ski idea is the inability of a ski-base system to climb up mixed snow and ice conditions. Waxless skis, although suitable for moderate slopes, do not approach skins in sheer climbing power.

Climbing Basics
If you don’t like climbing, you are missing out on 50 percent of the enjoyment of backcountry skiing. It doesn’t have to hurt! By using the proper equipment and techniques, you can learn to enjoy climbing and even get good at it! Technique is an important part of the art of climbing on skis. Every climbing challenge has a solution, and trying to use muscle instead of brains is a sure way to burn out fast. Using diagonal traverses, while technically longer, can save you energy for the long haul. Sometimes going slower at higher altitudes allows you to complete a longer climb without stopping at all. You’ll be skiing past the sprinters who will be stopping to rest as you head for the summit.

Transitioning
It takes time to switch ski modes from uphill to downhill mode or visa versa. This process is called “Transitioning”. It takes time to remove skins or to put them on. When the weather is sunny and you have energy, it’s easy. But, if you’re tired and in a blizzard and miles from the hut, it is a whole new ball game. Learn to change your gear quickly and have it work the first time. Be sure your skins have a fresh layer of glue. Be sure they fit your skis exactly before you leave the house. They should not be buried in your pack, but easily accessible. Practice putting your climbing skins on fast! Some people can take off their skins without taking off their skis! For speed in bad weather, you and your skiing partners can take off each others’ skins so you won’t have to remove skis. This saves a lot of time and energy.

In bad weather, the longer you stop, the colder you will get. And if you are ready to go before the others, you can help those who are having trouble thereby getting the whole group going faster. Keep duct tape and repair tools handy- not buried at the bottom of your pack- in case you need to fix your skins. Power bars and water should also be easy to get to.